The Science of African Hair

(iCanvas, n.d)

Yes, you are about to read about the mysteries of what makes African hair different. But first!! Let's take a moment to think about the cultural conversations around African hair.

As I grow in my young adult journey, I am learning more about my appearance and the first thing I wanted to learn about is my hair and why for years I was coerced to think that modifying my hair with an abundance of chemicals would be my daily or weekly routine. I remember back in high school, I would relax my hair all the time and put on a lot of Dark and Lovely hair moisturiser, to a point where I would lay my head against the school bus window and would see the grease on the window. Yes, that is not a pretty sight. I did it though because I was taught to keep my hair straight all the time and keep it moisturised. Then I shifted to using Black Silk to keep my afro khona ezoThamba (soften), but the reality is - applying the Black Silk relaxer with the number of times I did, fried my hair and made it thin!

Social media may be toxic for a number of reasons but I have one reason to thank it for, for once, I got to learn more about my hair from these platforms. First off, moisturiser assists in hair growth, the Black Silk relaxer damaged my hair from constant use. Ladies one startling fact: RELAXER DOES NOT MAKE YOUR HAIR GROW!! IT CHEMICALLY STRENGTHENS IT!! I was so mad when I found this out. We have been lied to by these companies! Now that you know better, do better, do healthier.

(Rose, 2020)

The craziest part about my discovery is that all my life, I never knew there

was such a thing as “hair type”. I have always known texture, just never hair “type”. I learnt that I am either definitely in the type 4 category ranging from type 4B and 4C. Let me tell you, I desire to have big hair! (but that’s a story for another post😉).

I wanted to speak about a book I read on the Science of Black hair called: The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. Don’t you worry I won't rewrite the whole book; I will summarise the important chapters I found interesting. Here we go…

Hair Growth Stages

(Nenonatural,2013)

Chapter one from page thirty-five speaks about hair growth stages and hormones, that take place in African hair. There is a monthly growth when it comes to hair. On average hair grows at 1/4 1/2 an inch per month from a situated hair follicle that is approximately 4mm below the surface of the scalp (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011).

Hair grows at four stages, which are: anagen (growing phase); catagen (resting phase); telogen (shedding phase) and lastly exogen which is the new phase of hair and the cycle is repeated again. However, it is important to know that only 80% of the hair goes through the exogen phase, and the length of this phase is predetermined by genetics and different hair type. On average the anagen phase can last up to four to seven years or a year or ten years. It is important to know that you may follow a Hair Growth routine, just note that your hair may not grow at the rate the hair growth product promises, because your hair growth is determined by your diet, age and genetics; if your family can grow long hair.

And here's something you do not want to hear, as we grow older anagen phase slowly shortens. I know that sucks but that’s nature, no amount of ‘nurture’ can prevent this without dire consequences! (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011)

Hair growth during pregnancy is tough. Pregnancy hormones drastically stop hair from growing. During pregnancy, hormone levels lock hair at the growing phases (Anagen) and resting phase (Catagen) phase. Pregnant women would notice that’s there is more thickness than normal to the texture and look of their hair. This is due to the fact that the hair is scheduled to shed, but due to pregnancy hormones are prevented at the shedding phase (Telogen) (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011).

Black Hair Structure, Shrinkage and Elasticity

(Keune North America, n.d)

Pages fourth to forty-three speak about the fundamental beauty of how African hair is structured, the way shrinkage works and the wonders of the elastic characteristic of African hair.

Natural African hair tends to curl, twist, bend and kink in various interesting angles along with the hair fibre. To illustrate, the book paints a picture of you taking a ribbon and scissors and using the curling technique to make the curl ribbons, the outcome of that curl is the same hair curl pattern African Hair has (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011).

At first, I hated shrinkage, it absolutely annoyed me, but again due to lack of knowledge, I learnt there is a purpose to it and an advantage. Shrinkage does not determine your hair length, but the more shrinkage you have the healthier your hair is. So, the more shrink the better! It is important to understand that natural hair has the tendency to want to draw up tightly towards the scalp, which makes the hair seem a lot smaller than it is. Sometimes shrinkage helps you achieve the desired hairstyle such as hair puffs, or shaped Afro, shrinkage is normal and is a characteristic of African Natural Hair.

African Hair has elasticity, that is that the hair has elastic qualities. When Black Hair is natural it can be pulled or stretched and returned to its normal length. Is that not a Super Power!. The Elasticity superpower is to be able to power comb through kinky or coily hair without breaking the hair.

Shoulder Length Goals

(MELANIN, n.d)

Chapter three from page fifty-six gives more insight on understanding the journey of achieving the should length goal. The most desired goal of almost every African woman is to grow their hair to a shoulder length, chapter three gives readers detailed information of the journey to reaching the shoulder length.

Many black women would agree to the fact that black hair is the hardest and the most expensive hair to maintain (Adeche, 2013). Black hair is discriminated against, but yet again many individuals find black hair fascinating on how it defies gravity. Long is something all black women want to achieve but is rarely met. Due to this desire, black women want to find other alternatives that will assist achieving getting their natural hair to grow longer, this can be achieved through braids, also through relaxing hair. Although till recent it is found that a relaxer does not grow hair, it chemically straightens it, revealing your actual hair length. The secret of the growth and length of Black hair is the "four-year secret”. Every four years, hair reaches what is called a terminal length measurement which is more about time than length. It takes a time length growth, which is four years. It is important to keep note that black hair no matter how long it is in the fourth year; follicles on that time, mark the follicles in that year will be scheduled to release hair (Davis- Sivasothy, 2011). This is why hair follicles always rest when the time frame of four years have expired, which mean that hair does not stop growing. It does not stop growing it just stops growing after a time period (four years) then it starts to grow again (Davis- Sivasothy, 2011). Black women have an attachment to their hair and take pride and lose money to maintain it (Adeche, 2013).

It is also important to understand that Black Hair does not grow long, it grows big. Meaning, the bigger your hair is, the longer it is, that's how you measure your hair as African men and Women.

Relaxer delilemma

(Beautify Hair & Cosmetics, nd)

As mentioned earlier in the article the generational lie that has manipulated women to comply with the social standard has pressured many African women around the world to have their hair straight to fit in the social bubble and not stick out. It is, however, interesting to see other women from other cultures also embrace their natural hair curls too. But, back to the relaxer its important to always remember, that relaxer’s main purpose is to chemically straighten the hair for a much regular length, and to keep the length and keep it straight you do not wash your hair either till the chemical runs out the hair or if you desire to wash it. Chemical relaxing as the book points out - is the harshest process of straightening your hair and hurts the scalp due to the burning sensation of the relaxer (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011). It is a painful process, and you always have to mentally prepare yourself to go through that process.

It is a new and interesting time to be alive in this world. To see that social shift of ideas and seeing a shift of perspective today. People are more open to things that were not socially excepted and there are individuals who are unlearning many things in their lives, on how they saw the world a few years ago. Additionally, it is interesting to see how the perspective of African Hair has now shifted, due to many influential individuals embracing their natural texture hair such as Lupita Nyong'o and Viola Davis flaunting their nappy hair on red carpets at prestige award shows with grace and beauty. Here's to loving your nappy hair!!!!!

For Further Reads:

• Rose, N., 2020. Where is the Natural Hair Movement for 4C hair?. [online] Dear Dark Skinned Girl. Available at: <https://deardarkskinnedgirl.com/2020/04/27/where-is-the-natural-hair-movement-for-4c-hair/> [Accessed 17 February 2022].

• For Long, Healthy Natural Kinky and Curly Hair - Your Dry Hair Days Are Over!. 2013. What Are The Stages Of Natural Hair Growth?. [online] Available at: <https://www.nenonatural.com/hair-blog/what-are-the-stages-of-natural-hair-growth> [Accessed 17 February 2022].

• Keune Education. 2020. Curl Patterns 101 – What’s Your Curl Type? - Keune Education. [online] Available at: <https://keuneeducation.com/curl-patterns-101-whats-your-curl-type/> [Accessed 17 February 2022].

• Adichie, C., 2013. Americanah. [ebook] New York: Alfred A. Knope. Available at: <http://file:///C:/Users/SNzama/Desktop/Americanah%20by%20Adichie%20Chimamanda%20Ngozi%20(z-lib.org)%20-%20Copy.epub> [Accessed 17 February 2022].

• Davis-Sivasothy, A., 2011. The Science of Black Hair. [ebook] Texas: Saja Publishing Company LLC. Available at: <http://file:///C:/Users/SNzama/Desktop/buhle/The%20Science%20of%20Black%20Hair%20A%20Comprehensive%20Guide%20to%20Textured%20Hair%20Care%20by%20Davis-Sivasothy,%20Audrey%20(z-lib.org).pdf> [Accessed 17 February 2022].